TV, Video & Home Audio Electronics

• Linn Basik Turntable

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Linn Basik LVX. Japanese Built Stereo Tonearm. Review this tonearm (5 reviews) linn lvx plus 1 linn lvx plus 2 linn lvx plus 3 linn lvx plus 4 linn lvx plus 5. Linn Basik LVX / LV-X owners manual, service manuals and schematics are for reference only and the Vinyl Engine bears no responsibility for errors.

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The original arm features a straight arm tube with detachable headshell and. £85 LVX Plus (including Basik. Linn Basik LVX / LV-X owners manual.

Introduction Thank you for buying the Linn BASIK turntable. We are sure it will provide you with musical pleasure for many years to come. Linn Products have always stated that the turntable is the most important part of a high fidelity system.

If you do not get a good signal from the record then the potential of the rest of your system will never be realised as neither the amplifier nor the speakers can improve the quality of the signal they receive. The Linn BASIK is made to the highest engineering standards and brings a new level of performance to turntables in its price range. INSTALLATION v Carefully remove all packing from box. V Put all the oil from the phial supplied into the bearing housing - NOTE Remove bearing-housingdustcap. V Carefully put the Inner Platter into the bearing housing supporting it as it sinks down to prevent damage to the bearing surfaces.

V Fit the Belt around the inner platter and motor pulley (see “Speed Selection'). NOTE – BE CAREFUL NOT TO GET OIL ON THE BELT v Fit the Outer Pllatter and Mat onto the inner platter. If your deck is fitted with a Linn AKITO tonearm, set the Tracking Weight as follows:- NOTE – the cartridge should be fitted to the arm prior to this procedure – remove the arm from the turntable when fitting the cartridge to the arm to prevent damaging the tonearm bearing during fitting. V Make sure the arm is clipped into its rest, the bias is off and the lift/lower device is lowered.

With tracking dial facing backward, screw the counterweight clockwise (as you look at the dial) onto the arm, pushing gently to engage the thread. Remove the stylus guard. Holding the fingerlift, unclip the arm and move it to between its rest and the platter. V Turn the counterweight to the position which balances the arm, i.e: where the stylus is floating at about record height. Clip the arm back into its rest.

Turn the tracking dial while holding the counterweight until '0' is aligned with the line on top of the arm. V Check the arm is still balanced.

If not you have moved the counterweight when setting the tracking dial, so re-balancethe arm and re-setthe tracking dial to '0'. Turn the counterweight clockwise (as you look at the dial) to the desired tracking force. Set the bias to the same value. (See General Installation for more information).

V Check the arm height is correct. The arm-tubeshould be parallel to the record surface. Adjustment can be made by loosening the arm height adjustment screw with a 4mm hexagon key, moving the arm to the correct height and locking the screw. To set the correct torque tighten the screw firmly using the alien key in position 1, then turn the key to position 2 and tighten no more than a further 1/8 of a turn. OVERTIGHTENING CAN WRECK BEARINGS. SITING Ensure the surface on which the turntable is to be used is level. For best results we recommend the following:- FLOOR MOUNTING Place deck on a small, light, rigid table e.g.

Small coffee table. Ensure the table is sitting firmly on the floor and not rocking.

WALL MOUNTING Wall mounting may be preferable where a highly sprung floor exists or where there is risk of damage by children. The shelf used should be light and rigid, and it should be fully supported by, but not firmly screwed or glued to its brackets. To allow the lid to open fully, a clearance of 3' (7.5cm) is required behind the plinth and at least 13' (33cm) above Fit the arm cable to the arm pillar taking care to push it all the way home. The connector may be locked in place with the small Alien screw on the side of the pillar (don't over-tighten).Ensure that neither the mains cable nor the arm lead are under tension or interfere with the feet as this will prevent the suspension from working correctly. SPEED SELECTION To change the speed of the BASIK turntable, switch off, remove the mat and outer platter and move the belt to the other level on the stepped pulley. The larger diameter will give 45rpm, the smaller will give 33rpm.

If changing to 45rpm it is advisable to start up the motor with only the inner platter in place, to allow the belt to find a stable position. Once the belt is running straight, switch off, replace the outer platter and switch on again. NOTE It is important to keep the belt clean - if it is contaminated with oil the sound quality will be degraded and the belt may jump off the 45rpm pulley. If this occurs, clean the bell and pulley with a little solvent - surgical spirits or other non-residuesolvents. TURNTABLE MAINTENANCE The BASIK is designed for a long operational life. To preserve the appearance and maintain the performance of your dock, you should note the following points: OUTER PLATTER Clean with a soft, dry cloth. DO NOT use any abrasive cleaner as this will remove the protective lacquer and cause corrosion.

MAT The felt mat can be cleaned with masking tape. MOTOR The motor pulley should be cleaned periodically. Remove the outer platter and belt, and gently clean with a cloth impregnated with isopropyl alcohol or other non-residue solvents. PLINTH This can be cleaned with a light duster or slightly damp cloth - make sure the stylus guard is in place before you start. If you have to remove an oil slain from the plinth, use a soft cloth and solvent.

OIL The oil supplied for the bearing provides life-longprotection. If the oil is lost from the bearing housing it must only be replaced by factory-suppliedoil which is available from your Linn dealer. The turntable should never be operated without oil.

LID The best method is to remove any dust with a damp cloth without any rubbing action and then use a soft duster. Lids are more often damaged by cleaning than in use. GENERAL SYSTEM INSTALLATION TRACKING WEIGHT & BIAS Every arm and cartridge combination has an optimum tracking weight which your dealer will have advised you of. RECORD CLEANING Most record cleaning devices do more harm than good. The best method of cleaning records is to lot the stylus remove any dirt in the groove, then clean the stylus. STYLUS CLEANING It is important that the stylus is kept scrupulously clean.

We have found that dry vibrating pad cleaners work well. Alternatively, Linn dealers can supply cleaning paper which is easy to use and gives excellent results. CLEAN CONTACTS Electrical contacts in a hi-fisystem must be kept mechanically sound and clean. A poor contact between the cartridge and arm will degrade performance. Checks on all contacts should be performed periodically. INTERCONNECT LEADS We recommend and supply good quality copper cable for interconnect leads and advise 4mm so multicore copper cable, such as Linn K20, for speaker leads.

SPEAKER PLACEMENT Speakers should be positioned correctly and should be mounted on rigid stands which are sitting firmly on the floor and not rocking. NOTE Linn speakers are designed to be placed close to the wall TRANSPORTATION Always keep all the packing for your BASIK turntable.

When transporting the BASIK turntable, remove the counterweight from the arm, remove the arm from the plinth, remove the inner platter from the bearing housing and place it in its position in the packing. Replace the bearing cap to prevent oil spillage. If the deck is to be shipped anywhere it is important to pack it properly in the original packing, otherwise damage will occur.

Linn Basik Turntable

Hello, I have recently acquired an LP12. It is from the mid-1980s (serial number 58XXX). It has a Basik Plus arm and a K9 cartridge. It will be going to Luc at Stereo Passion here in Ottawa, Canada for a tuneup and a new Linn Adikt. I am not planning on any major upgrades (my budget will only allow me to swim in the shallow end of the LP12 pool).

I am using a Linn Kolektor pre-amp and a Linn LK140 amplifier. My speakers are Totem Rainmakers (I had to keep some Canadian content in my system).

My (first) questions are - How good is the Basik Plus arm? Driveragent Serial Key more. Would it be the obvious weak link in my setup? I have occasionally seen Linn Axis tables with Akito arms in Canada for reasonable money. Would it be logical to buy one of these, swap the arms and resell the Axis with the Basik Plus? Thanks in advance for any assistance that can be provided. Hi Scott, the BASIK + is not to bad but would be the weak link in your setup (I don't Know the speakers).

Does your LP 12 have Valhalla PSU? If not a PSU like Valhalla, Lingo, Hercules or Dr. Fuss from Germany should be the next step. Otherwise save some money for an armupgrade as Ittok (better as Akito in my ears) or sh Ekos. Adikt is a very fine cartridge, but if your pre supports MC you can get a Denon DL 304 (better resolution as Adikt and similar drive) or AT 33 PTG ( Super resolution and laid back presentation, not going forward as Adikt or DL 304) for the same or less money as the Adikt. But, don't worry, also with Basik + and a proper adjusted LP 12 you can enjoy musik cheers Thorsten LP 12 Lingo EKOS KRYSTAL LINTO Majik DS .

DIY amps driving a full active FAST system, also DIY. Tp147 Wrote:Hi Scott, the BASIK + is not to bad but would be the weak link in your setup (I don't Know the speakers). Does your LP 12 have Valhalla PSU?

If not a PSU like Valhalla, Lingo, Hercules or Dr. Fuss from Germany should be the next step. Otherwise save some money for an armupgrade as Ittok (better as Akito in my ears) or sh Ekos.

Adikt is a very fine cartridge, but if your pre supports MC you can get a Denon DL 304 (better resolution as Adikt and similar drive) or AT 33 PTG ( Super resolution and laid back presentation, not going forward as Adikt or DL 304) for the same or less money as the Adikt. But, don't worry, also with Basik + and a proper adjusted LP 12 you can enjoy musik cheers Thanks for the response. My LP12 does have the Valhalla PS. My Kolektor only has a MM phono stage so I cannot go with an MC (I have heard great things about the Denon). I am thinking more and more that I will keep the Basik Plus and start out with a more affordable cartridge. I am very fond of the Ortofon 2M Red on my Pro-Ject Xpression III so I am thinking about getting a 2M Blue for the Basik Plus. I can then put the difference towards an arm upgrade.

Would moving to an RB250 or RB300 be a worthwhile improvement over the Basik Plus? The difference in price between the Adikt and the 2M Blue would almost buy an RB300.

You're opening up an old can of worms here. Consensus was, way back in the day, that the Basik Plus sounded better on the LP12 than the RB300 (bring on the flames!). The Basik Plus, though a budget arm, got very good reviews (I think I still have the Hifi Answers issue around here somewhere) and seemed able to handle even a half decent MC without getting overloaded.

When I was in university and on a strict budget I ran a Valhalla/BasikPlus/Trak and later a Karma and it sounded great. I never cared for the K9 or K18II. I then went to the Akito2 which was a nice step up (I got mine from a dealer 2nd hand who didn't know what it was) and finally an Ekos which made the Akito sound broken. The Akito's current price, IMHO, is inflated, even on the used market. I'd save for either an Ittok3/b (rather rare) or an Ekos I or II.

If the Basik Plus is working then enjoy it until you can make the leap. LP12/Cirkus/Keel/Armageddon/Ekos/Akiva/Linto/Vibraplane; Akurate DS; Kisto; Kudos; Klouts (Recapped); Keltiks; Linn Black wiring loom; Shunyata Taipan power cords. Aero9k Wrote:You're opening up an old can of worms here. Consensus was, way back in the day, that the Basik Plus sounded better on the LP12 than the RB300 (bring on the flames!). The Basik Plus, though a budget arm, got very good reviews (I think I still have the Hifi Answers issue around here somewhere) and seemed able to handle even a half decent MC without getting overloaded. When I was in university and on a strict budget I ran a Valhalla/BasikPlus/Trak and later a Karma and it sounded great. I never cared for the K9 or K18II.

I then went to the Akito2 which was a nice step up (I got mine from a dealer 2nd hand who didn't know what it was) and finally an Ekos which made the Akito sound broken. The Akito's current price, IMHO, is inflated, even on the used market. I'd save for either an Ittok3/b (rather rare) or an Ekos I or II. If the Basik Plus is working then enjoy it until you can make the leap. Thanks for the input.

After doing a little more research I see that maybe the RB250 or RB300 isn't a good idea. I was just looking for affordable alternatives. I agree that used Akitos seem very expensive (especially after learning about bearing issues related to the Akito 1).

I think your recommendation about an Ittok or an Ekos is probably the right way to go but I am trying to keep my budget modest. I really should give the Basik Plus a fair shake before dismissing it. I am finding it can be difficult to get an unbiased opinion about Linn products. It seems that you are either a Linnie or you aren't and there is no middle ground.